FAQ Categories: Ironing & Melting

Wax paper and parchment paper look similar on the roll, which is why this mistake is so common. They behave completely differently under an iron.

What happens if you use it

The wax melts at about 54 degrees and spreads over the hot beads. You will see white or yellowish stains that do not wash off, and the paper may fuse into the melted surface. The piece is usually ruined, and cleaning the iron is extra work. It also leaves residue on your pegboard that transfers to later projects.

How to tell them apart

Check the package: parchment says baking, oven, or silicone-coated. Wax paper says waxed or coated with wax, and it is also slightly translucent and feels waxy. If you already bought wax paper, keep it for wrapping food, not for crafting. The safe options are compared in our paper FAQ, and if beads already have wax stains, see our stuck paper fix FAQ.

Parchment paper is the budget favorite among perler crafters, and for good reason: it costs pennies per project and works as well as branded ironing paper. A few notes on using it well.

How to use it

• Cut a piece bigger than your design, covering all edges.
• Use the non-shiny side up if your paper has two sides.
• Replace it when it starts to brown or curl; old paper can stick.
• Keep the same piece and reuse it until worn, most pieces last many projects.

What not to use

Wax paper is the common mistake: the wax melts into the beads and leaves white stains. Greaseproof paper from restaurants also lacks the silicone coating. If you are unsure whether your paper is silicone-coated, check the package for baking or parchment wording. Dedicated ironing paper is simply parchment that is pre-cut and thicker. Our paper guide FAQ compares all options, and the full ironing routine is in our ironing guide.

Ironing only one side is the classic beginner shortcut, and it works right up until a piece bends or cracks. Here is what the second pass actually does.

What the second pass fixes

• Warping: one-sided heat cools unevenly and pulls the piece into a bowl shape. Both sides balance the shrink.
• Weak edges: the back of single-sided pieces stays porous, so edges crumble.
• Durability: keychains, coasters, and anything handled daily survive much longer with both sides fused.

When one side is enough

Tiny charms, earrings, and test pieces under 50 beads are fine single-sided if you want a softer, lighter finish. Some crafters also prefer one-sided for wall art, because the back texture holds glue better for mounting. Otherwise, use both sides. The exact flip-and-iron technique is in our ironing guide, and if a piece warps anyway, see our warping fix FAQ.

Fusing is what turns a tray of loose beads into a permanent piece. It sounds intimidating the first time, but the process is short and forgiving, and you can always iron again if the first pass was too light.

The five steps

• 1. Cover: lay ironing paper over the beads, extending past every edge.
• 2. Heat: set the iron to medium-high, about 150 degrees, steam off.
• 3. Press: move the iron in slow circles for 10 to 15 seconds without pressing down hard.
• 4. Check: look through the paper. Fused surface plus visible holes means it is done.
• 5. Flip and repeat: cool for a minute, peel, flip, re-cover, and iron the back for 8 to 12 seconds.

Common fusing mistakes

Steam is the biggest killer: water in the iron makes beads warp and stick to the paper. Pressing hard flattens beads instead of fusing them. And leaving the iron still burns one spot while the rest stays loose. If your beads will not fuse at all, the heat may be too low, or the plastic may be a softer generic blend, which our not melting FAQ covers. Full technique in our ironing guide.

Melting is not a binary on or off process. The beads soften gradually, and the sweet spot sits between barely fused and fully flat. Learning to read that window is the whole skill.

The three melt stages

• Under-melted: beads touch but pull apart easily, edges crack. Solution: iron 5 more seconds per side.
• Perfectly melted: beads fuse into one piece, holes clearly visible, slightly flexible when cool.
• Over-melted: holes close into a smooth sheet, colors blend and darken. The piece is stiff and brittle.

Technique for consistent melting

Use even heat across the whole piece: keep the iron moving in circles and never rest it on one spot. Iron each area to the same count, especially on large projects where edges cool faster. Let the piece cool completely before touching it, because warm plastic keeps shifting. Our ironing guide has full timing, and if a piece ends up under-melted you can simply re-iron it, a trick covered in our re-ironing FAQ.

Timing is the most common mistake in perler crafting, and it goes both ways: too short leaves beads that crumble apart, too long closes the holes and flattens the piece. Here is how to time it right.

Timing by project size

• Small piece (under 200 beads): 8 to 12 seconds per side.
• Standard board (200 to 800 beads): 10 to 15 seconds per side.
• Large project (several boards): 15 to 20 seconds per section, moving the iron continuously.
• Mini beads (2.6 mm): only 5 to 8 seconds per side, they melt much faster.

How to know it is done

Lift the iron and look through the paper. The beads should be fused into one surface with the holes still visible as small dots. If the surface looks smooth with no bead texture, you have gone too far. When in doubt, iron less and add more time if needed. The complete technique, including flips and flattening, is in our ironing guide. If beads stay loose, see our not melting FAQ.

Too low and the beads barely stick; too high and they melt flat, closing the holes and sticking to the paper. The right temperature melts the surface of the beads while they keep their tube shape underneath.

How to find the right setting

• Dial with numbers: aim for 150 degrees. Some irons need slightly more, some less.
• Fabric labels: the cotton symbol (three dots) is usually right; silk and wool are too low.
• No labels: start lower and test on a few spare beads.

Test before you commit

Place five spare beads on a corner of the pegboard, cover with paper, and iron for 10 seconds. If they fuse but keep their holes, the setting is right. If the holes close or paper sticks, lower the heat. If they barely change, raise it. Ironing technique and times are covered in our ironing guide, and the exact settings per brand differ slightly, which our brand comparison explains.

Ironing is the step that separates crafters who get flat, strong pieces from those who get warped, patchy ones. The technique is simple, but the details matter. Here is the full method.

Step 1: Set up

Lay the filled pegboard on a heat-safe flat surface. Cover it completely with ironing paper, extending past the edges. Set your iron to medium-high, about 150 degrees if it has a dial, with the steam off and no water in the tank.

Step 2: Iron the front

Press the iron on the paper and move it in slow circles for 10 to 15 seconds. You should feel the beads soften under the paper. Lift and check through the paper: if the surface looks fused and the holes are still visible, stop. Do not press hard; the weight of the iron is enough.

Step 3: Flip and repeat

Wait one minute, peel the paper slowly, and flip the piece. Re-cover with fresh paper and iron the back for 8 to 12 seconds. This second pass is what keeps the piece flat and seals weak spots. Remove the paper and flatten the warm piece under a heavy book or cutting board for five minutes. Our blog guide covers troubleshooting and timing tables, and if you are making a project from scratch, start with a pattern from our free library.